19.01.2024, 09:49   #1

Hobbyfotograf

Unclear

Different Results
Question for the community.
Why do such different results occur when transferring an image from the camera to an image editing program and then uploading it to the photo club, and how can this be avoided?
In my case, it goes like this:
When I bought my Canon EOS 2000D camera, I also downloaded Canon's free editing software "Digital Photo Professional 4" from the internet. Although I'm not an advanced user (and probably won’t become one), I get along well with this program. The photos displayed on the screen closely match the original image and require very little post-processing.
But as soon as I try to upload the photo, noticeable changes appear that differ from the original.
There’s a software installed on my notebook (unknown to me, not installed by me) that corrects deviations, such as vertical lines (which the Canon program can also do), and I use it if necessary.
Still, from memory, the photos in the Canon program look more realistic to me (the grass wasn’t really that green, and the sky didn’t look that gray). However, when I upload a photo directly from the Canon program, it clearly lacks contrast.
Could this be due to my notebook?
 
19.01.2024, 10:40   #2
Profilfoto
Michael Hansen

Hello Klaus,

I'll try to provide an answer. Every monitor, including the one on your camera, displays images differently. Professionals use calibrated monitors to ensure consistent image results. This isn’t always feasible for amateurs. The presets in photo editing software also play a role. Are you shooting in RAW or JPG? How does your software import the images? It’s generally a good idea to get familiar with one program and always use the same monitor to achieve a consistent standard result. There are many programs available with varying features. The best one for you can only be found through testing. Most offer 14-30 day trial versions. For beginners, I personally find Luminar quite user-friendly. Lightroom is almost an industry standard. With just a few adjustments, you can get great results. Concepts like luminance, highlights, shadows, and blacks are fundamental across all programs. Beginner-friendly software often includes presets to help, but fine-tuning is something you’ll need to do yourself.

I hope this helps a bit—feel free to ask if you have more questions.

Best regards, Michael
19.01.2024, 13:01   #3

Hobbyfotograf

In addition to Michael's response:
Raw processing, sorting, and minor (automatic or optionally manual) corrections work great with the freeware "darktable," even somewhat limited when working from JPG files. Its feature set is roughly comparable to Lightroom, but it runs not only on Windows but also on Linux and Mac. And, as mentioned, it’s free, so it’s always up to date. The interface is intuitive for the basic steps, though it can get a bit overwhelming when you dive deeper. But there are good tutorials available—also free online.
It’s definitely worth the effort to calibrate your monitor once. There are also useful presets like Adobe Gamma.
For uploading images here, though, that only helps to a certain extent, since this website apparently uses unusual settings—almost all images end up noticeably brighter and with exaggerated color intensity.
@Toni, if you’re reading this: please share the settings so we can adjust accordingly.
Best, Ulf
19.01.2024, 17:50   #4

Hobbyfotograf

Thanks, Michael, and thank you, Ulf, for the quick responses.
Let me try to sort this out.
Yes, I know there are images in RAW or JPG format—I use JPG. But that’s about the extent of my knowledge when it comes to photo editing. Every now and then, I click a button if it works, and I’m happy with the result. I don’t really know how the program reads the images.

So, it was a mistake on my part to first copy the selected image to the desktop and then upload it from there, instead of uploading it directly from the editing program (I’ll have to try that right away).
I’m going to download Luminar and Lightroom tomorrow, check out their terms of service, maybe give them a try, and compare them with the Canon software.
But first, I need to get familiar with my computer setup since my notebook only has 23 GB of free space left.
Thanks again for now—I’ll definitely be reaching out to you again.
Best, Klaus    
19.01.2024, 19:06   #5

Hobbyfotograf

@Klaus Berbig
It depends on the settings you have on your camera. Basically, every camera initially produces a raw file. This raw file is either saved directly, or a (lower quality, compressed) jpg is generated from it using default settings, and then both are saved, or the (relatively large) raw file is deleted. Raw files don’t always have the extension .raw; depending on the camera manufacturer, they might be .orf, .arw, or a dozen other extensions.
Note: Lightroom is only available as a fairly expensive subscription, and it doesn’t offer more features than the free software "darktable." But that’s a matter of personal preference. If you really want to support Adobe…
20.01.2024, 08:24   #6

Hobbyfotograf

For me, this will probably be the default setting, as I didn't find any mention of such an option in the online user manual. Last night, I looked into possible alternatives to my Canon editing software but haven't downloaded any yet. Now, I'll try uploading a photo directly from the Canon editing program to see if I can manage it and how the result turns out.
Thanks again, Ulf.
14.08.2025, 01:24   #7
When printing your photos, you need to calibrate both your monitor and your printer; otherwise, you might get some unexpected results.

I "calibrate" using special test photos that are available online. Just search for "monitor test photo" on Google Images.
14.08.2025, 07:55   #8

Hobbyfotograf

@Erich Kremer A good monitor calibrator (e.g., calibrate models) comes with appropriate gray and color charts. It's more challenging with scanners and printers—scanners can have the original image "shifted," and with printers, the whole process also depends on the ink or toner, meaning it theoretically needs recalibration every time you change ink or toner. I calibrate using gray and color charts, not "test photos."  
15.08.2025, 23:16   #9
@Ulf Simon Good test photos include gray and color bars.
 
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